Surfing

Nothing gives you an adrenaline rush like surfing. Imagine yourself paddling through the glassy water. You see a huge wave approaching. You paddle faster and stand atop the wall of water. Then you descend it. Surfing is a rollercoaster-ride of Mother Nature. Although the surreal experience is almost spiritual, its public image doesn’t reflect reality. In Japan, since most people think that surfers are all chara chara shiteiru (flashy and womanizing), they often associate surfing with hedonism and indulgence. Surfing, to the contrary, is not only a difficult sport that requires commitment and practice, but is also a beneficial exercise that makes us healthy. It increases our strength, improves our cardiovascular system, and keeps us in a positive mood.

Surfing requires commitment and practice because experience speaks volumes. One can understand the basic facts about the ocean and the physics of surfing by reading a book. But to actually apply that knowledge into practice takes time and effort. Unlike any other sport, surfing takes place on a foundation that constantly moves. The ocean can cause fear and confusion, clouding one’s judgment amidst an abundance of variables, such as current, wind, geography and so on. Although people who grew up surfing can make quick decisions based on experience, those who start late must make every decision based on thought, and therefore it takes time and focus to master this sport.

Those who are committed, however, will be rewarded with increased strength. Since the bulk of the session is spent on paddling, surfers acquire muscle mass. This is especially so in the upper body. By making long graceful strokes with an arched back, one will gain muscle mass on the arms as well as on the back. Paddling is also a good cardiovascular exercise that will keep the heart functioning well. Routine surfing sessions will result in improved heart and blood vessel function, hence many people continue surfing till much later in life.

Surfing can make a positive influence on the mind as well. Experienced surfers tend to be mellow not only because they enjoy a healthy body, but also because of the waves. Sea spray, from the crashing waves, contains ionized oxygen and can make the brain release endorphin and serotonin, hormones that make us positive. Surfing, in other words, can relieve stress and work as an anti-depressant.

Although surfing has been long misunderstood, it is in fact a healthy sport that makes everyone who’s committed acquire strength, vitality and a positive frame of mind. Anyone who has the chance to start surfing should not hesitate to try it.

 

Mother Nature　　　　   母なる自然

bulk of 〜　　　　　　　〜のほとんど、〜の大部分

cardiovascular exercise　 有酸素運動

sea spray　　　　　　　 波しぶき

ionized oxygen　　　　   イオン化酸素（マイナス電気を帯びた酸素イオン）

anti-depressant　　　　   抗鬱

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